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Reading about Chloe's behind-the-scenes experience at some of New York City's best restaurants is enough to turn you into a kitchen romantic. She conjures the traditional essence of a gastronome, and her honesty brings it all back down to earth. She is proof that your greatest restaurant dreams can come true, if you have the passion and persistence.
When did you know that you wanted to work in food?
I grew up in the suburbs of Manhattan, about 20 minutes from Midtown, and when I was a little kid my parents took me everywhere with them. My mother makes this joke that I've slept in some of the best restaurants in New York City, because I used to fall asleep curled up in laps and on banquettes whenever I was out with them. I am lucky to have been exposed to restaurant culture at a very young age, and I simply fell in love with it. When I was nine we celebrated my sister's birthday at Bouley, and I got to go into the kitchen and meet [Chef David] Bouley; he gave me a cookie. That was my first time in a professional kitchen and I didn't want to leave. Working at Del Posto is a childhood dream come true - it's like being a cross between Eloise and Fanny (of Fanny at Chez Panisse).
How did you get your current good food job?
I got my job because I answered an ad on Craigslist for a hostess/reservationist position, and our hospitality manager took a chance on me, even though I'd never worked in fine dining before. I basically kept e-mailing him until he called me in for an interview, and then I e-mailed him some more until he hired me. I worked as a reservationist for about four months, and then our executive chef, Mark Ladner, asked me if I would be his personal assistant. I jumped at the opportunity and took the position. This past summer our kitchen manager left, and it seemed natural for me to take on her responsibilities. It's a lot of work, because I continue to work for Chef Ladner, but I haven't looked back.
How did your previous work or life experience prepare you for a good food job?
Before I was with Del Posto, I worked as the Education and Events Coordinator at The Brooklyn Kitchen in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. Being hired at Brooklyn Kitchen was the best possible thing that could have happened to me when I moved to Brooklyn in 2009. I met a community of incredible people who were and are extremely focused on providing good food experiences and products to New York City and beyond. People travel for miles to take classes at Brooklyn Kitchen, which certainly speaks to their quality. Plus, The Brooklyn Kitchen is a hip scene, full of up-and-coming food folks-I got to work closely with Bob McClure of McClure's Pickles, Tom Mylan, who is the head butcher at The Meat Hook and a contributor to the Atlantic, Annie Novak, who founded the Eagle Street Rooftop Farm in Greenpoint, and so many others, including Del Posto's pastry chef, Brooks Headley.
I also happen to date a line cook, and he has been my greatest inspiration; I met him before I really worked in food, and his passion and drive have really influenced me. He currently cooks at Momofuku Ssam Bar, so you can bet that I get to eat pretty well when I'm not at work.
What was the greatest obstacle you had to overcome in pursuing your Good Food Job dream?
Self-doubt is the biggest obstacle that I've encountered. We all measure success differently, but many of my undergraduate colleagues are pursuing PhDs or working in their academic fields, and sometimes I wonder what the hell I'm doing with my life. Despite any misgivings I might have, the siren call of gastronomy simply won't let me go, and I think that's a good sign that I'm on the right path. This year I chose to apply to NYU Steinhardt's doctoral program in Food Studies, and I think that being able to participate in Food Studies at the highest academic level would actually be the most satisfying thing at this point in my career. Just completing the application was invigorating, and knowing that there is a place in academia for people like me is really heartening.
What can you identify as the greatest opportunities in food right now?
That's such an open-ended question. It really depends on the individual, because this is an industry that really takes all kinds. Right now the zeitgeist is clearly locavore cuisine, food education, urban farming and artisanal products, and that's definitely where the largest concentration of young, engaged people is, but I am enamored with those who work front of house at restaurants like Blue Hill at Stone Barns and Eleven Madison Park (and Del Posto). I have met so many incredible restaurant employees who are exceptionally passionate about providing memorable customer experiences, who exude passion, and who put vast amounts of time and effort into learning everything they possibly can about what their restaurant produces. Front of House gets a bad rap because there are so many terrible servers at so many run-of-the-mill restaurants, but good hospitality should be expected every day and duly rewarded.
If you could be compensated for your work with something other than money, what would it be?
Grilled cheese sandwiches.
Has a restaurant meal ever made you want to work in food? If so, where did you have it?