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Jessica Kesselman
Program Director & CSA Coodinator
Rockland Farm Alliance
February 28, 2012

These days, we are living on the extremes, with each of us in an urban or a rural community (Dorothy in Brooklyn, Taylor in the North East Kingdom of Vermont), and we don't often spend time thinking about the suburban wilderness in between. If you've ever thought to yourself, 'I could never live in a suburb.' then Jessica's story might be the one to make to you think twice. Her thoughts on food and community are as engaging as any tale of 24-hour bodegas on every corner, or miles of clear, bright stars in the country sky.

When did you know that you wanted to work in food?

I was raised on pizza and TV dinners, processed food targeting families with two working parents in the 70's and 80's. After years of living in Manhattan, I moved to San Francisco and had a bit of culture shock. Great restaurant food was affordable if not down right cheap. My husband and I did most of our shopping at a farmer's market near the highway where the availability and diversity of produce blew my mind. When we moved back to Manhattan, I was determined to cook in our tiny kitchen, and to break through the urban wall to the source of where our food was coming from. Having kids made this even more important to me. When I had a chance to return to teaching after my second child was born, I chose a part-time job as a cheese monger at Murray's instead. I've been working in the food world ever since, although much closer to the source now.

How did you get your current good food job?

A couple of years after moving to the suburbs in Rockland County, NY, I saw a postcard on the public library's community bulletin board of a rag-tag group of people sitting in front of plots of vegetables and flowers. They called themselves the Rockland Farm Alliance. I emailed them but didn't hear back for a while. One day, I get a phone call. The woman on the phone says, "How would you like to start a community farm?" I knew then I had found my place in Rockland. After volunteering for close to two years on efforts to get a community farm up and running, my involvement turned into my current role. I basically do whatever I'm able to, to move the work forward. We completed our first season of the Cropsey Community Farm CSA in New City last Fall and are gearing up for our second. Our vision is to see community farms across Rockland County, so that every person living here has access to locally grown, organic food. The fact that these farms can also serve as educational centers makes everything more meaningful. We're partners with several schools and organizations, providing opportunities for hundreds of kids and families over the course of the growing season. And we're just getting started!

How did your previous work or life experience prepare you for a good food job?

My background is in public education and non-profit program management. I love being on the front line of change. And a lot of the work is about education, whether its in the classroom or at the cheese counter. As much as I love getting my hands dirty in the field, I'm not surprised I always end up on the organization side of things!

What was the greatest obstacle you had to overcome in pursuing your Good Food Job dream?

I knew I wanted to be at the source of food - namely, soil. But I also knew that my strengths and experience are better suited for working with people rather than plants. I just don't have the green thumb I wish I did. Despite my background in education and program management, once I made the switch to food retail, I wasn't sure how to get back into the 'office world', for lack of a better world. My resume looked like a patchwork quilt. I could see the threads that held everything together, but I didn't think a potential employer would. I also needed a job with flexibility. I have three kids, and I want to be able to be at their schools in the middle of the day, home to help with homework, have dinner with them. I knew part of the answer meant working from or close to home. So I started by volunteering when I could at places like Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture, meeting people, building relationships. I did what I could to stay connected to the world I knew my dream job existed in.

What can you identify as the greatest opportunities in food right now?

Setting up new models for local food systems, including small-scale farming in suburban communities. There's been great discussion about the impact of global food systems, the need to reduce our carbon footprint, the necessity for better systems of inspection and labeling on food that is coming from further away. And the focus has been on connecting rural farms with urban centers for a long time. But the suburbs? They were once dotted with many family farms and dairies that disappeared long ago and today the nurseries and stables are closing. Many of these are multi-generational businesses. I love what we are doing in Rockland, because we are a suburban community committed to returning local food production to our area. Its a community-wide effort. That's about as local as one can get in the suburbs beyond one's own backyard.

If you could be compensated for your work with something other than money, what would it be?

Acres of land for another farm. Maybe one acre for every hundred hours worked? Cropsey Community Farm started on five acres. If I work one hundred hours a month, we could have another community farm in Rockland in five months!
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