{"id":4969,"date":"2019-05-28T12:00:27","date_gmt":"2019-05-28T12:00:27","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/?p=4969"},"modified":"2019-05-28T02:12:58","modified_gmt":"2019-05-28T02:12:58","slug":"the-druze-tradition-is-alive-at-the-table-in-one-womans-nyc-restaurants","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/the-druze-tradition-is-alive-at-the-table-in-one-womans-nyc-restaurants\/","title":{"rendered":"The Druze Tradition is Alive at the Table in One Woman’s NYC Restaurants"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/a><\/p>\n

In the heart of Manhattan\u2019s Upper West Side, on Amsterdam Avenue between 82nd and 81st Streets, Gazala\u2019s transports its diners to a world far removed from the hustle and bustle. It\u2019s the type of place you don\u2019t find very often in this city. A gold tray ceiling adds a bit of coziness to the spacious restaurant. Rustic wooden tables beckon diners to settle in and stay awhile. Mosaic tiles frame the open kitchen where delicious smells waft about as Chef Gazala Halabi dishes up her Druze family recipes, recreated for a New York audience.<\/p>\n

I felt it would be a good idea to share with the American people my culture through food, Halabi says.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Growing up in Daliyat al-Karmel, Israel, Halabi spent her childhood immersed in the world of\u00a0 food and hospitality, not only at her family\u2019s restaurant and spice shop but also as a member of the Israeli Druze, an ethno-religious group\u00a0 known for their affability. Yet opening and operating two restaurants of her own in the United States was far from anything she could have imagined as a child.<\/p>\n

\u201cWhen I married and\u00a0 I came here to the United States, I struggled a lot in the beginning with the language, and with the culture, but with time, as I tried to fit in, I felt it would be a good idea to share with the American people my culture through food,\u201d Halabi says.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

Gazala Halabi in the dining room of her namesake restaurant in New York City’s Upper West Side, and her Osh Al-Saria dessert, a favorite among diners<\/p><\/div>\n

In 2007, at the age of 27, Halabi opened what\u2019s now known as the 9th Avenue or original Gazala\u2019s Place, a snug little restaurant in the Hell\u2019s Kitchen neighborhood. With only a handful of tables and no liquor license, it caters mostly to the weekday lunch crowd. It\u2019s not uncommon to find a line of people checking out the freshly made bourekas<\/em> whose comforting smell of baked dough often causes people to stop and give the unassuming spot a second look.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

Halabi removes a tray of freshly baked bourekas<\/p><\/div>\n

While no formal record exists, it\u2019s believed that Halabi\u2019s restaurants are the only ones in the United States serving Israeli Druze cuisine, which is known for spreads like labane<\/em> (a homemade goat cheese with olive oil and Zaatar) baba ganoush and hummus; salads and kebabs and dishes with lots of fresh herbs and spices. The Druze faith incorporates elements of Islam, Hinduism and Greek philosophy, and dates to the 11th Century. While there are believed to be about a million people around the world who identify as Druze, marriage across religious lines is still rare, and most live in Israel, Syria, Lebanon and Jordan.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe feedback from customers gives me a lot of energy. When people just walk to the kitchen and talk about how they love the food. It makes me want to keep doing it and I wasn\u2019t scared anymore, I just go ahead and try to do even better every single day,\u201d Halabi says.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

Halabi preps vegetables in the kitchen of her restaurant<\/p><\/div>\n

She prepares all her dishes from scratch using recipes handed down from generations as well as some she recreated from the memories of watching her relatives in the kitchen.<\/p>\n

\u201cThey are Druze recipes but I\u2019ve fixed them a little for New Yorkers,\u201d Halabi says. \u201cI minimize the salts, or in the cookies, there\u2019s supposed to be a lot of rose water but I minimized it so you can barely taste it. Everything I serve is one hundred percent my taste, though.\u201d<\/p>\n

Everything I serve is one hundred percent my taste, though.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

For those unfamiliar with Druze cuisine, Halabi says it\u2019s the Branzino, a Mediterranean sea bass that comes lightly fried and topped with a sauce of herbs and spices, and the labanie <\/em>(meatballs served with a yogurt sauce), that bear the Druze signature.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

A spread from the lunch menu at Gazala’s, which serves Druze food with a distinctly New York style<\/p><\/div>\n

While many of the dishes appear simple at first glance, it\u2019s in the execution that both the food and Halabi\u2019s commitment to hospitality shine. Each bite of her Osh Al-Saria <\/em>is creamy and lively with hints of citrus and rosewater. A very light dough topped with yogurt pudding and pistachios, it\u2019s the type of dessert that is easy to overlook on a menu, but within each spoonful there\u2019s a welcoming, familiar taste, as if you\u2019ve stepped into your best friend\u2019s kitchen and are readying for a chat.<\/p>\n

Halabi created the recipe from the recollection of a similar dish her grandmother made when she was a child. \u201cI made it for her once when I was visiting, and she was said, How\u2019d you do that<\/em>,\u201d Halabi says with a smile. It\u2019s the most popular dessert on the menu at each of her restaurant locations, bookending a dining experience that honors Halabi\u2019s past while keeping her firmly rooted in the present.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/a>

Teacups ready for service at Gazala’s<\/p><\/div>\n

She now spends most of her days at the Upper West Side location, which opened in the summer of 2018. While both restaurants feature the dishes she\u2019s become known for \u2013 the spreads, bourekas<\/em> and desserts \u2013 the larger kitchen at the Amsterdam Avenue location has allowed her to expand the menu. And while the second location means longer hours \u2013 they do a brunch with a Druze breakfast special of eggs, Akwai cheese, olives, pickles, and hummus \u2013 she manages it, along with mothering two teenage children, in part because she lives practically across the street.<\/p>\n

\u201cTime goes by so fast,\u201d Halabi says. \u201cWe have no family here, everyone is in Israel. I didn\u2019t think I\u2019d be here but for a short amount of time and I still don\u2019t see myself growing old here.\u201d<\/p>\n

For now she\u2019s concentrating on the restaurant and continuing to share her culture and a sense of home with everyone who walks in the door, asking with a warm smile that holds a hint of a secret, \u201cCan I get you something to eat? What can I make for you?\u201d to the couple that\u2019s just walked inside.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Bridget Shirvell is a freelance writer covering food, travel and sustainability. Her work has appeared in Martha Stewart Living, Civil Eats, PBS NewsHour and more. Connect with her on Instagram or Twitter @breeshirvell.<\/em><\/p>\n

Liz Clayman is a native Mainer, and longtime Brooklynite. A freelance photographer specializing in the culinary and hospitality industry, she is also the P<\/span>hoto Editor at Edible Manhattan and Edible Brooklyn magazines. www.lizclayman.com<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In the heart of Manhattan\u2019s Upper West Side, on Amsterdam Avenue between 82nd and 81st Streets, Gazala\u2019s transports its diners to a world far removed from the hustle and bustle. It\u2019s the type of place you don\u2019t find very often in this city. A gold tray ceiling adds a bit of coziness to the spacious […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[7,11],"class_list":["post-4969","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-uncategorized","tag-business","tag-culinary"],"yoast_head":"\nThe Druze Tradition is Alive at the Table in One Woman's NYC Restaurants - Good Food Jobs<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.goodfoodjobs.com\/blog\/the-druze-tradition-is-alive-at-the-table-in-one-womans-nyc-restaurants\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"The Druze Tradition is Alive at the Table in One Woman's NYC Restaurants - Good Food Jobs\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"In the heart of Manhattan\u2019s Upper West Side, on Amsterdam Avenue between 82nd and 81st Streets, Gazala\u2019s transports its diners to a world far removed from the hustle and bustle. 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